Tag Archives: north devon

You Need a Longboard Mate…

WP_20130604There’s been some great logging sessions to be had in the sunshine these past few days, the weather has been largely cloudless and hot which is very welcome indeed. In previous years I may have bemoaned the fact the waves were tiny and not worth a dip but I’ve recently discovered why every guy with a big mini-mal or longboard in their quiver says “You need a longboard mate…” or equivalent….
I used to think that longboards were probably just their thing and I wasn’t interested in surfing something that looked so difficult to manoeuvre, maybe I also was caught up in the longboards are for old men bollocks. Anyway, all I know is having a big board on days when it’s knee-high and sunny is a blast! To be honest the waves on Sunday were weak but they were glassy and if you found a good bank there were some real fun ones to be had. I like big boards. There, I said it.

Saunton Session on the Doofer

Surfer assessing the line up at Saunton
Surfer assessing the line up at Saunton

Saunton this morning, it was a case of looking better from the beach than it was out there to be honest. A pretty weak and wobbly swell that wasn’t the best testing ground for my new 6’2 Fourth Doofer but I’d not got it wet despite having had it for a month so enough was enough. It paddles really well for a shortboard shape, definitely paddles better than my 5’10 Speed Dialer and I was glad of that in the close period stuff out there today, there was a fair bit of paddling and ducking to be done at times. Feels responsive when up and riding too if not quite as quick as I was hoping but I’ve been on a 5’2 Simmons type board for a while and I think its warped my sense of speed a little. Need a nice shaped wave to put it through its paces really but showing promise.


And the sea is still bloody cold for nearly June, I went with no gloves/no hood and my hands were ok after the initial 10 minutes of pain adjusting to the nippiness but the head was very ice creamy after a few successive duck-dives, hopefully it will continue to warm up…..!

Hot PepperJelly

Fun wedges at the local.
Fun wedges at the local.

Had a few fun ones yesterday in lazy 2ft surf at the good old Ho! I’ve been hoping to get my new Doofer from Fourth wet but the conditions called for something with a bit more foam (the Doofer’s intended for good waves) to maximise the fun so out came the 5’7 Pepperjelly from Cre8tion – I swear you can catch a ripple on this thing. The sun came out for a while too which made the hoodless duck-dives just about bearable although ice cream headaches are still in full force! Here’s to some more fun summer stuff.

Spring Swell at Woolacombe

This shot was from the last groundswell we had in the South West a couple of weeks ago, waves were chest high and walling up really nicely. Water still crazy cold for approaching mid-April and I was still fully clobbered up in 5mm and a hood (normally hoodless by this time of year) but that never seems to matter much when there’s no wind and the waves are that fun. The short and porky Cre8tion Pepperjelly was going like a dream on the couple of peeling rights I had, starting to feel how to rock the board from rail to rail using the vee along the tail for smooth transitions, it can be tricky as the tail is so wide but once you get in a rhythm it feels very natural and you can really maintain some speed harnessing all that foam. Foam is fun.

5’7 of foamy fun


High Tide Backwash Capers at Sandymere

Sandymere Surf, North Devon

High tide Sandymere on Saturday was a weird one, I knew the tide was going to be high enough for some horrid backwash capers at about 9.30am  so I planned fully to be in the water for before 8 to catch the last of the push for what was a really nice swell and almost no wind. However I made the mistake of dismissing my morning alarm instead of snoozing… dedication for you! So by the time I got to the beach it was nigh on high tide (top pic is when I arrived, bottom pic shows improving wave shape after I got out as the tide receded), I couldn’t be arsed to drive elsewhere so had an hour and a half trying to get into some steep to fat to steep to fat backwashy ones. Had one interesting air drop in an otherwise fairly un-noteworthy session. Great to see the sun breaking through though and giving rise to a run of more settled weather and more clean waves on the horizon this week, there’s a whiff of spring in the air and I for one can’t wait for things to warm up a little bit!

High Tide Sandymere

Saunton Rollers

A few really fun little waves at Saunton yesterday, the weather was terrible with a lot of rain and wind pushing around the air however the waves were waist and a bit high on the sets (photo is not a set wave!) and most of them were really peeling down the line giving some fairly long right handers. Feel like I’m getting a lot better at surfing pro-actively now rather than just reacting to the wave face I’m now looking for sections more and making more premeditated carves – looking forward to some more clean waves now to continue improving and by the looks of the forecast I shouldn’t have to wait long!