Saunton this morning, it was a case of looking better from the beach than it was out there to be honest. A pretty weak and wobbly swell that wasn’t the best testing ground for my new 6’2 Fourth Doofer but I’d not got it wet despite having had it for a month so enough was enough. It paddles really well for a shortboard shape, definitely paddles better than my 5’10 Speed Dialer and I was glad of that in the close period stuff out there today, there was a fair bit of paddling and ducking to be done at times. Feels responsive when up and riding too if not quite as quick as I was hoping but I’ve been on a 5’2 Simmons type board for a while and I think its warped my sense of speed a little. Need a nice shaped wave to put it through its paces really but showing promise.
And the sea is still bloody cold for nearly June, I went with no gloves/no hood and my hands were ok after the initial 10 minutes of pain adjusting to the nippiness but the head was very ice creamy after a few successive duck-dives, hopefully it will continue to warm up…..!
A few really fun little waves at Saunton yesterday, the weather was terrible with a lot of rain and wind pushing around the air however the waves were waist and a bit high on the sets (photo is not a set wave!) and most of them were really peeling down the line giving some fairly long right handers. Feel like I’m getting a lot better at surfing pro-actively now rather than just reacting to the wave face I’m now looking for sections more and making more premeditated carves – looking forward to some more clean waves now to continue improving and by the looks of the forecast I shouldn’t have to wait long!