This is well worth a watch with a cuppa. Encapsulates the experience of surfing in the UK well I think. It’s mostly a cold and damp pursuit but the glimmers of joy had on the good sessions make it so worth it. Can’t believe they got Charles Dance to do the narration either, his voice brings it all together. Liking the look of some of the single fins being handled in the vid too. I need to get down the beach, not sure if I can still surf!
“Clean waist-high waves- get in there!” was the call on twitter from a couple of surf shops and a local surfer or two on a sunny weekend last month. Normally I do take twitter surf reports with a pinch of salt as one man’s “Flat” is another man’s “Fun log sesh” however waist high meant that surely there was something rideable. Clean’ish surf? In June, on the channel coast of the UK!? This is rare indeed. I hurriedly packed up the car, managing to dig out my summer suit which hadn’t seen any use since last October and headed for the most local spot to me, just inside the Dorset border with Hampshire. Once I arrived I remembered why I used to get so frustrated when trying to surf as much as possible round here. This was the scene;
This spot is pretty exposed so it was making the best of what little swell that was plodding in. It’s a pretty fickle place too, so despite a mile or so of sand there was only one peak working and it was like gold to the wave starved crew. There were about seven people out there vying for this little A frame roller, all on SUPs or beastly logs. There were also two Dutch guys getting suited up outside their camper van which was parked just along from my motor. You’ve come all the way from Holland to surf here?!
I stood and watched for a while, is it worth getting in? With that sand-bar already struggling to serve the guys that were out there I was thinking these Dutch boys will surely push it to breaking point… I’m already contemplating getting back in the car and heading home. Maybe I should go out on the bike or something? But wait, this one looks like it could be good?! Ah… it’s fattened up… it’s tiny actually. Hold up. Is that another peak down there? Oh no, that’s closing out. I scan around back to a groyne that produces a nice right every now and then, it’s probably the best peak on this beach on the average type of day, when the tide’s not too full. Alas, it’s not breaking. Even though there’s one guy out there willing it to.
I decide I can’t be bothered to battle it out on the crowded little A Frame, I’m maybe undergunned for it with just a 7’6 mini mal anyway. The SUPers will trample all over me. It’s not worth the parking fee for maybe a few party waves that last all of four seconds is it? Dejected I fire up the car and leave the sea behind.. that’s an hour wasted. Is all of this worth it? Should I just save surfing for the guaranteed nailed on days or trips to more wave rich coasts even? Am I just a grumpy bastard and should I have just got involved in the melle of 9 surfers to a wave?
These are the questions that haunt a south coast surfer.