This shot was from the last groundswell we had in the South West a couple of weeks ago, waves were chest high and walling up really nicely. Water still crazy cold for approaching mid-April and I was still fully clobbered up in 5mm and a hood (normally hoodless by this time of year) but that never seems to matter much when there’s no wind and the waves are that fun. The short and porky Cre8tion Pepperjelly was going like a dream on the couple of peeling rights I had, starting to feel how to rock the board from rail to rail using the vee along the tail for smooth transitions, it can be tricky as the tail is so wide but once you get in a rhythm it feels very natural and you can really maintain some speed harnessing all that foam. Foam is fun.
Whenever the weather refuses to improve and the waves are no good I watch this vid to perk me up and I remember that from this time of year on there should be plenty of this type of stuff to look forward to…….
Woolacombe area yesterday.